RV Living in Winter | What We've Learned | Full time RV Living


Sharing our RV Winter Living Tips for when it is freezing cold! It is a renovated fifth wheel style RV that is allowing us to live tiny in order to pay off debt and hopefully build our dream home. Please Subscribe to follow our journey!

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31 replies
  1. Tara
    Tara says:

    It takes a while to learn how to RV in summer and a lot more in winter. But it’s fun. You feel really good when you solve something. It’s good for the brain cells. Really good for women cause you have to learn too and it gives you confidence to fix things. I, a woman, can take out my furnace, take my toilet apart and clean my air conditioner.

    Humidity is worse with the amount of water use – boiling food, showering, and propane use.

    You’re so cute!

  2. newsveteran
    newsveteran says:

    Here's a tip: SHOW what you're talking about and not sit on the same shot for more than 15 minutes. I got sick of you sitting there with your hands flaring and playing with your hair for 15 minutes. SHOW the skirt and how you did it. What is "super duper cold?" SHOW the heating system you have. And they're not "like" space heaters, they're SPACE HEATERS. You have "like" a mattress? What's that? Or do you mean a MATTRESS? Can't tell because you don't SHOW what you're talking about. After the mattress, I couldn't watch any more.

  3. D D
    D D says:

    I full time rv in northern Minnesota at -20/-30 for 3/4 months I’m just used to it I guess …in fact I just order my second rv been a yr now so far so good

  4. arms length
    arms length says:

    You have to purpose-build a unit which is specifically designed to deal with weather extremes. Commercial trailers/RVs are not made for that; those are mostly just for getting through a chilly summer night at worst, while maximizing manufacturers revenue with high prices, flashy features and lousy quality. The exception might be a massive executive live-in office trailer skid used for well-sites or large remote plant sites; but you'll need a very high-capacity flatbed trailer or highboy with big winch to get around with it. And big bucks and a class 1 (CDL-type) driving license, and mind-boggling amounts of propane or the ability to hook up to the site's glycol or electric heat trace system.

    So, you have to design and build some sort of travel trailer or gooseneck having massive insulation, non-metal cabin frame and skin, a unitized fiberglass exterior shell for reliable water-tightness (preferably in a marine-style composite foam laminate), industrial strength water and electricity systems, and high-output low-cost heating using wood and/or coal with an outside air supply. Stay away from 12volt systems and propane as much as possible. Build solidly with industrial strength construction and systems; don't cheap out, and don't get too big. A true bolt-down prebuilt 8x 22' foundation with integrated power and water at those sites you'll be at for awhile would be good too. Then you can stay mobile and not struggle with the cold.

  5. CLAY Thomas
    CLAY Thomas says:

    TALK, TALK TALK TALK, are RV's really that slow to understand the principles of what cold temperatures can do to people, pipes, and animals. All this should have been researched and nailed down before the RV was even purchased. The worst thing to happen is your plastic water pipes will burst if you leave water standing in the pipes in a freezing temperature. Keep the water flowing ever so slightly PERIOD. Dress in layers it saves on electricity. Most RV's chase the sun, but I've seen ice cicles in 80 degrees.

  6. Vagabond Mango
    Vagabond Mango says:

    I used my propane in my big classA motorhome and the windows and walls were soaking wet. Even with an outside vented furnace and ducted heat system, the condensation was in sane! I love electric heat because it’s so dry and no fumes. But I’m not always plugged in. Propane not only causes soaking wet floors and walls and windows, it costs a lot and doesn’t last long. I hated it

  7. Mark Cobberti
    Mark Cobberti says:

    I saw a video of a full time rver did during the winter was get a bunch of bails of hay and put them all around the base of the camper. Sometimes you may be able to get the hay for free.

  8. MC Black
    MC Black says:

    NEVER use an extension cord on ANY heater. The amperage's will FRY the connection from the ext cord to the heater. Your heater should only be used inside into your wall sockets. TRUST ME! Peace!

  9. Luann Kelly
    Luann Kelly says:

    Glad I found your channel. I am planning to do the same and am concerned about winter. We get to zero and below sometimes and to up to 114 degrees F in July. I will be in a newer 26ft travel trailer. Thanks for these tips from your experience. I will be stationary in an RV Park to begin with.

  10. Darryl Bavington
    Darryl Bavington says:

    I have a diesel heater installed which heats up my 30 foot motor home really quickly. You can buy the cheap brands of diesel heater for under $400.00 . My water filter also broke under my sink and caused a mess

  11. Denise Lynn
    Denise Lynn says:

    Heavy curtains helps…back source space heater is good but you need to use your gas so your under belly of trailer…do a better installation. Electric blanket also work & even a throw electric blanket wind goes through your windows plus during the day heat goes right out you are going do heavy blankets & curtains…drip your water at night might have drip during the day it sucks in the winter in a trailer again you neex to use the heat no wonder you had major issues…talk to others to what they do in the winter time burr burr not fun DO EVER USE A EXTENTION CORD FOR HEATERS YOU WILL CAUSE A FIRE!!!!
    Warm weather check for mold your tailer doesn't seem its a 4 season trailer
    We know we lived in a 4 season 5th wheel & it was cold too

  12. Lawrence Cavens
    Lawrence Cavens says:

    Hey there , sounds like you’re cold Cold COLD. Just be careful how much power you are drawing as 30 amps can only do so much, there will be excessive wear and tare on your power cord especially at the plug end. Safely the rule of thumb is to keep 20 percent free for short bursts when needed – in other words doing the math 30 – 20% = 24 amps is usable for continuous use and constant draw. using the furnace will take up the 20% you need in for heat. The scare of CO2 from a furnace is abit of a myth as long as the heating chamber doesn’t have any holes or cracks in it you should be fine. If the CO2 Detector goes of while the furnace is running then yes your furnace needs attending to and should be inspected otherwise it is very safe to use the furnace.

  13. Sara Scott
    Sara Scott says:

    You need to be checking under your mattress for condensation and get yourself a dehumidifier. So many people dont get one and end up with a moldy mattress by spring.

  14. Doris Shanks
    Doris Shanks says:

    I have used my onboard furnances (I have two) and have never had a problem with fumes or excessive moisture but I do have dual pane windows and pretty good insulation. Also the heat is directed to my basement compartments to prevent freezing my tanks and water lines. I do sometimes use damp rid to control moisture but it isn’t much.
    If I was hooked up I would supplement my furnace heat with my electric space heaters but do want the furnace on to send heat to the basement.
    The carbon monoxide detector runs on batteries and is mainly for generator exhaust fumes getting inside the rig which can be deadly. The LP gas detector is usually located in the kitchen near the floor and that is hard wired to the battery. The propane appliances like the furnace, cooktop and ovens run on propane and the refrigerator is also on propane when you are not hooked up.
    The furnace would not be installed in an RV if it was unsafe to use so go ahead and use it.


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